cutler and co

On a recent trip to Melbourne this Kluster writer happily indulged in a meal at the Good Food Guide hatted restaurant (two to be exact), Cutler and Co.

Located in the bohemian suburb of Fitzroy, Cutler and Co's dining room combines comfort with familiarity and understated sophistication. Inside the long, gently lit room a semi-open wine store holds more than 1300 bottles. Considering the breadth of their selection it stands to reason that the role of sommelier at Cutler & Co would be filled by an individual who is suitably confident across a range of vino. The aforementioned individual, Sally Humble, was appropriately knowledgeable and accommodating in helping us choose a bottle of Alsace Riesling to accompany our eight course Chef's degustation.

The combination of flavours was generally quite traditional (think: duck with plum), it is the execution that makes this dining experience exciting. Executive chef Andrew McConnell combines high-quality produce to create a multitude of textures in his dishes. Layering taste-upon-taste to create a range of delicately balanced dishes.

King fish capriccio, horseradish crème, smoked caviar and beetroot jelly provided us with a fresh and velvety start. A salad of carrots done four ways (including pickled and raw) served with walnut cream was my partner's favourite. Mine, the delectable use of red bitter radish, capers and mustard fruits contrasting with butter-soft duck breast. Although the abalone and crab soup did not receive our gold-star rating the combination of liquid, soft slips of abalone finished and frosty corn granita was a textural delight.

The well-paced courses and attentive, smooth service allowed us to plod through our meal at a delightfully leisurely pace.

Cutler and Co is at 57 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, 3065. Ph (03) 9419 4888

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